A new investigation has brought to light a shocking revelation: mountains of discarded British clothing intended for recycling or resale have instead been shipped overseas and dumped in Ghana’s fragile and protected wetlands. This environmental scandal exposes the hidden costs of fast fashion and unsustainable textile waste, with devastating consequences for ecosystems, communities, and the global fight against climate change.
The probe highlights how Ghana, particularly the capital city Accra and its neighbouring wetlands, has become an unintentional dumping ground for Europe and the UK’s fast fashion waste. Protected lagoons and mangrove forests now lie beneath piles of rotting textiles, destroying habitats, polluting water sources, and threatening the livelihoods of thousands of local residents who depend on wetland ecosystems.
The Scope of the Clothing Dumping Crisis
The UK, one of the largest exporters of used clothing worldwide, ships hundreds of thousands of tonnes of second-hand textiles abroad every year. While some of this clothing ends up in Ghanaian markets and is resold as affordable fashion, an increasing proportion of it is of such poor quality that it cannot be reused. Instead of contributing positively to local economies, much of it ends up discarded in open landfills, burned, or abandoned in ecologically sensitive wetland zones.
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Reports suggest that up to 40% of second-hand clothing shipped into Ghana is unfit to be sold, meaning thousands of tonnes pile up in landfills or spill into rivers and lagoons. During rainy seasons, these textiles clog drainage systems, choke waterways, and exacerbate flooding in low-lying areas.
Impact on Ghana’s Protected Wetlands
Ghana’s protected wetlands, especially the Korle Lagoon and Sakumo Lagoon near Accra, are home to migratory birds, fish nurseries, and vital mangroves that shield coastal zones from erosion. The dumping of fast fashion textiles threatens these environments in several ways:
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Ecosystem degradation: Synthetic fabrics such as polyester break down into microplastics, contaminating water and soil, disrupting aquatic ecosystems, and poisoning fish populations.
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Biodiversity loss: Protected bird species lose their nesting grounds as wetlands become covered with textile waste.
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Pollution and toxins: Burning unsellable textiles releases toxic fumes, while dyes and chemicals leach into groundwater.
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Human health risks: Local communities face respiratory illnesses, skin infections, and contaminated food sources due to microplastic contamination.
British Fast Fashion at the Centre of the Crisis
Fast fashion’s business model—characterised by mass production, low prices, and short clothing lifespans—is a leading factor behind this crisis. British consumers discard millions of garments every week, with some clothing barely worn before being donated or thrown away. While charity shops and recycling schemes claim to give these clothes a “second life,” many garments are in such poor condition that they are exported overseas and ultimately dumped.
This creates a paradox: sustainable fashion initiatives in the UK are undermined by the fact that waste is simply shifted to another continent, where disposal regulations are less stringent.
The Human Side of the Story
Behind every pile of discarded garments are communities forced to live alongside waste they didn’t create. In Accra’s markets, traders who rely on imported second-hand clothing find themselves burdened with bales filled with unwearable items. These traders often incur financial losses, since they pay for shipments without knowing whether the clothes are in sellable condition.
Additionally, fisherfolk living near wetlands are reporting declining catches, while farmers dependent on nearby water sources struggle with polluted streams. Local children play in areas littered with textile debris, exposing them to long-term health risks.
A Closer Look: Data on Clothing Waste
The following table highlights estimates regarding clothing waste exports and their impacts:
| Source Country | Estimated Textile Waste Exported to Ghana (tonnes/year) | Percentage Unsellable/Waste | Key Environmental Impact in Ghana |
|---|---|---|---|
| United Kingdom | 100,000 – 150,000 | ~40% | Wetland pollution, landfill overflow, microplastics |
| European Union | ~250,000 | ~30-35% | Open burning, toxic emissions, water contamination |
| USA | ~120,000 | ~25% | Contribution to Accra landfill crisis |
The Role of Ghanaian Markets
The Kantamanto Market in Accra is one of the largest second-hand clothing hubs in the world, processing millions of garments every week. While often described as a circular economy success story, where clothes are reused and re-sold, the reality is much darker.
Studies reveal that for every 55-kilogram bale imported, around 20 kilograms end up as waste. Traders pay hundreds of pounds for these bales, but when garments are unwearable, the textiles are dumped illegally in wetlands or burnt along riverbeds. These practices are now threatening Ramsar-designated sites—ecosystems of international importance that Ghana has pledged to conserve.
The Global Inequality of Fashion Waste
This crisis starkly illustrates environmental inequality. While Britain and other wealthy nations push sustainability narratives and advocate recycling, developing countries like Ghana are forced to bear the material consequences of overconsumption. The export of problematic textile waste highlights how wealthier countries externalise their ecological footprint, leaving vulnerable countries to deal with the fallout.
Possible Solutions to the Crisis
Addressing this complex challenge requires interventions on multiple levels:
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Stricter Export Standards: The UK government could regulate the quality of clothing permitted for export, ensuring that only wearable garments are shipped abroad.
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Producer Responsibility: Brands need to be held accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, potentially through Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) legislation.
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Local Recycling Infrastructure: Ghana should be supported in building its own textile recycling plants to process waste responsibly.
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Consumer Behaviour Change: Encouraging British consumers to buy less, choose higher-quality clothing, and recycle properly could reduce demand for mass exports.
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International Cooperation: Stronger environmental agreements between exporting and importing nations are essential to curb illegal dumping.
The Way Forward for Ghana and the UK
The investigation sheds urgent light on a broken system that is harming both people and planet. Ghanaian authorities are under mounting pressure to protect wetlands and support communities affected by textile waste. Meanwhile, Britain faces growing criticism for failing to address the ultimate fate of its exported clothing.
The next step may be international collaboration that aligns consumer responsibility with environmental justice. Without swift action, the ecological catastrophe unfolding in Ghana’s wetlands could become irreversible, displacing communities and erasing fragile ecosystems.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. Why are British clothes ending up in Ghana’s wetlands?
Because large volumes of second-hand clothing exports are of poor quality, Ghanaian traders cannot sell them, leading to dumping in wetlands and landfills.
2. How much of the exported clothing is actually waste?
Estimates suggest that about 40% of clothing exported to Ghana from the UK is unsellable and ends up as waste.
3. What are the ecological impacts of this dumping?
The impacts include water pollution, biodiversity loss, microplastic contamination, and damage to protected ecosystems such as mangroves and lagoons.
4. Who is responsible for solving this crisis?
Responsibility lies jointly with exporting nations like the UK, fashion brands, Ghanaian authorities, and consumers who drive the demand for fast fashion.
5. Can Ghana recycle the dumped clothes locally?
Currently, Ghana lacks sufficient recycling infrastructure, but investment in textile recycling plants could help manage future clothing waste sustainably.
